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General Toad Care

Congratulations on welcoming a new toad to your family. We here at Four Seasons Animal Hospital want to help you with your new friend, starting with the basics...

Size & Life Span

Depending on the species of toad:

Average adult size: 2 to 6 inches

Average life span: up to 10+ years

Diet

A well-balanced toad diet includes recently fed crickets, waxworms, and mealworms. Your toad’s age will determine how often you feed him. If you have a young juvenile toad, you should feed him everyday. If you have an adult toad you should plan to feed him two to three times a week. You should give your toad four to six standard-sized food items (standard being the size of a cricket) when you feed him. Toads will recognize a routine. Try to feed your toad at the same time every feeding day. Only feed your toad store-bought crickets. Crickets caught in the wild could be carrying parasites that will make your toad sick. Food items should be sprinkled with a calcium supplement at every feeding and multi-vitamin supplement once or twice a week. Most toads will eat their food within 15 minutes. Wait at least 15 minutes and then remove any uneaten food to prevent food rot.

Housing

Cage Size & Design

You will need to purchase a ten gallon tank for one or two toads.

Cage Furniture

Substrate is ground covering that is specifically made for terrariums. Apply at least three inches of substrate down on the floor of your terrarium to allow your toad to burrow when he feels like hiding. The type of substrate will depend on your specific type of toad. In general ‘frog moss’, which is sold at pet stores, makes for good covering, as does additive-free potting or topsoil purchased at a garden store. Pulverized coconut fiber is also an excellent form of substrate. Never use artificial turf or gravel, as these ground coverings are too harsh for your toad’s delicate skin.

Temperature

Keep your toad’s tank between 65-82°F

Humidity & Water

Your toad should always have a bathing pool. You can make one in a couple steps: (1) buy a shallow plastic bowl, (2) make a hole in the substrate so that the bowl’s mouth is level with the rest of the substrate on the floor of the terrarium (3) put a sturdy plank of some kind into the bowl so that your toad can get in and out of the water easily as toads a relatively poor swimmers. The pool should be roughly half the toad’s height and four times as long as your toad. It is very important that the water you use to fill the pool is dechlorinated-- toads can die if given chlorinated water.

Potential dechlorinated water sources include:

● Aged water: Allow chlorinated water to sit in an open container for 24-48 hours so chlorine can dissipate.

● Bottled spring water

● Filtered tap water: run through a sediment and activated charcoal filter

Maintain humidity over 60% by misting the tank as needed every day.

Lighting

Toads should have roughly 12 hours of ‘sunlight’ each day. Use a daylight lamp or a low UV level lamp, but only you have provided your toad with hiding places (so he can get away from the light if he wishes to). If you want to be able to see your toad at night, you can install a red lamp to light up his home at night. Toads are most active at night. Toads can’t see red light, so they will think they are moving around in the dark but you will still be able to see them.

Temperament

You should generally not put more than three toads together in a tank, as many toads can become aggressive. Never house different kinds of toads together.

Handling

Amphibian skin is very sensitive so handle toads as little as possible. Always wear gloves when handling your frog as oils or residue on your skin can harm your toad.

Please do not take a toad from the wild. Wild animals should not be taken from their home in the wilderness and should be left alone in their natural habitat.

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